Design or Die: Recap
The Intersection of Design and Bioinnovation: Elevating Value and Differentiation
In October's webinar, industry experts shared insights on how design can drive bioinnovation, emphasizing that thoughtful design is critical for creating unique, competitive products. This discussion underscored a shared belief: design should be central to advancing bioinnovation.
Amid September’s fashion weeks, several innovators highlighted the potential of next-generation materials on high-profile runways. Danish brand Ganni led the charge at Paris Fashion Week, presenting their multiple innovations as part of their "Fabrics of the Future" initiative and unveiled the Simplifyber sneakers—a striking example of bioinnovation in action.
To catch up on the latest bioinnovations showcased during SS25, check out our round-up here.
Key Takeaways from the Session
Design expertise is essential for bioinnovation success.
Runway exposure still holds significant value.
Quality and supply chain mastery are critical.
Building the right team is paramount.
Simplifyber’s 3D forming process allows for embedded functionality within the material
Image Copyright: Simplifyber
Bespoke textures created via Simplifyber’s 3D forming process
Image Copyright: Simplifyber
Design’s Role in Bioinnovation
Design goes beyond aesthetics; it also enhances functionality, sustainability, and scalability. Innovators like Simplifyber aren’t only meeting sustainability criteria but are raising overall value for end customers. By engineering materials with tailored flexibility and strength, they reduce component use and improve durability, offering both performance gains and material cost savings.
For bioinnovators, grounding design choices in product functionality is essential. Simplifyber, for instance, benefits from team members with backgrounds in design and product development, allowing them to shape materials suited to the industry’s demands. Effective design not only meets functional needs but also attracts consumers, strengthening brand value and staying in sync with market trends.
Video: GANNI SS25 ‘The Craft’
The Value of Runway Exposure
We’ve experienced a lot of prototype fatigue, with many frustrated at the lack of conversion into scale. So, with many feeling a little jaded by it, all too often the discussion becomes should you put a material on the runway that is not commercially ready? With that in mind why do brands keep doing it and innovators keep pushing for it? The simple answer - runways still provide a critical marketing and innovation platform. As Liz Alessi noted, runways allow brands to experiment and gauge reactions without the constraints of traditional margins. For brands like Ganni, known for pushing boundaries, these shows amplify their sustainability efforts, distinguishing them in the competitive landscape.
Beyond brand reinforcement, runways increase visibility for start-ups, many of whom operate with limited marketing resources. For some, investor expectations make runway presence attractive, signalling early market traction.
Polybion’s facility in Mexico
Image Copyright: Polybion
Polybion tanning their bacterial cellulose Celium™ material
Image Copyright: Polybion
Mastering Quality and Supply Chain Fundamentals
An understanding of conventional production processes is crucial for bioinnovators aiming for large-scale adoption. While biomaterials hold promise, they face significant hurdles, including cost and quality. High initial production costs can deter larger brands focused on margins, so start-ups must articulate how they plan to achieve price parity or offer other savings to gain traction within established brands.
Assuring brands and consumers of the durability and performance of new materials remains a challenge, yet it is essential for bioinnovators to build trust and credibility. Science-backed data is the gold standard here.
Building the Right Team for Bioinnovation
A well-rounded team is essential for bioinnovation success. Simplifyber, for example, benefits from a mix of design, materials science, and engineering expertise, which supports the development of market-ready materials and processes. Maria from Simplifyber emphasized the value of hiring talent across multiple disciplines, such as industrial design and software engineering, to propel innovation.
Still from the Design or Die webinar
Image Copyright: Biofabricate
Advice for Founders and Brands
For Founders
Know Your Market: Study target brands, including their aesthetic, audience, and challenges.
Research Production: Attend trade fairs, tour partner facilities, and understand your place in existing systems.
Develop Full Products: Move beyond prototypes; showcase complete product examples.
Build a Diverse Team: Include experts in design, product, and supply chain to navigate market complexities.
For Brands
Collaborate and Communicate: Engage early with innovators to clarify technical, price and volume requirements and align with brand values.
Educate Stakeholders: Ensure internal teams understand the benefits of new materials to streamline adoption.
Educate Start-up Partners: Share your brand ethos, performance and aesthetic expectations, and non-negotiables.
Be Realistic About Priorities: Define what matters most—whether it’s reducing emissions, water use, or other metrics.
Experiment Openly: Use runway shows and limited editions to test new materials creatively.
GANNI x Simplyifyber Moon Shoe ‘Kiltie’ - product breakdown
Image Copyright: Simplifyber
GANNI x Simplyifyber Moon Shoe ‘Kiltie’
Image Copyright: Simplifyber
Concluding Thoughts
The integration of design and bioinnovation is vital for creating successful sustainable, innovative products that delight customers. Interdisciplinary teams, strategic partnerships, and consumer education will play key roles in mainstreaming these innovations. For both innovators and established brands, embracing the synergy between design and materials science is key to pioneering the future of sustainable fashion and beyond.
